Lamb Roti

Roti is a wonderful unleavened bread served hot from the griddle.  Along with its variations, such as phulka and chapatti, it is a staple in many parts of the world, especially the Caribbean, India and the Middle East.  There are myriad fillings.  One of my favorites, a popular Indian dish of lamb with onions and mushrooms, inspired by a Madhur Jaffrey recipe, makes a perfect filling although not originally intended as such.

The roti are simple to make, but should be prepared just before serving. I serve a hot stack of roti alongside a bowl of the filling. A couple of spoonfuls of filling is placed on the roti which is folded over and eaten by hand.

Filling ingredients (serves 4 – 6)

2 lbs. boned shoulder of lamb, trimmed and cut into 1-cubes

5 medium onions

Vegetable oil (enough to coat skillet by 1/8 inch)

¼ t whole black onion seeds (kalonji), if available

½ t whole fennel seeds

¼ t whole cumin seeds

15 fenugreek seeds

½ cup plain yogurt

1 t salt

1/8 t freshly ground black pepper

¼ t cayenne pepper

½ lb. fresh mushrooms

Directions

1. Peel and halve the onions lengthwise.  Slice into 1/8-inch half-rings.

2. Heat oil in a 12-inch skillet.  Fry onions in high heat until they begin to turn dark brown in spots and soften, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir as you do this.

3. Remove onions with a slotted spoon and set aside.

4. In the same skillet place the black onion seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds and fenugreek seeds.

5. As soon as the fennel seeds begin to darken, put the meat in the skillet and fry on all sides until well browned, 5 to 10 minutes.

6.  While meat browns, place yogurt in a small bowl and slowly beat in ½ cup water with a fork. Pour into the skillet.

7. Add salt, pepper and cayenne and bring to a boil.  Lower heat to medium low, cover and cook for 25 minutes.

8. Clean mushrooms.  Cut off ends of stems.  If small, leave whole; if larger, cut into smaller pieces.

9. Add to skillet, stir, cover and cook another 25 minutes until meat is tender.

10 Uncover and add onions. Raise heat to medium to reduce liquid.  The only sauce should be what clings to the meat. Check for salt and serve.

Roti

Ingredients (makes 16 roti)  You’ll need a flat cast iron griddle.

4 cups all-purpose flour

1 t salt

1 t baking powder

2 T vegetable oil

1 ½ cups warm water

Directions

1. Combine flour, salt, baking powder and oil in a mixing bowl.

2. Add water and pull together with your hand until a soft dough forms.  Add a little more water as needed.  Dough should clean bowl.  It might still be slightly sticky but not “wet”.

3.  Place on a floured surface and knead into a smooth ball.  Cover with a damp cloth and let rest 15 minutes.

4.  Roll out into a log shape with your hands and pinch off sections to form balls the size of golf balls.

5.  Heat a flat cast iron griddle to hot but not smoking.

6.  Roll out a ball of dough with a small rolling pin to a 5-inch circle the thickness of a nickel.  Roll on one side only.  Don’t turn over.  Use enough flour to prevent sticking.

7. Place roti on the dry hot griddle, rolled side down.  Cook until bubbles begin to form on surface.  Check underside to look for brown spots. Flip over.

8. Cook until both sides have brown bubbly spots.  Brush one side with clarified butter or melted ghee.  You will need to adjust heat from time to time.  It should take about 45 seconds to one minute per side to cook.

9. Place on a plate in a warm (180 degree) oven.  Continue with remainder of roti placing in a stack in the oven.  Serve immediately with hot lamb filling.

Recipe by Phyllis Kirigin http://sweetpaprika.wordpress.com

Crunchy Calamari

If you crave the crunchiest calamari, put the wheat flour aside and think tempura. We’re not talking about anything heavily coated here, but a light golden brown crispy coating using rice flour. Many recipes for fried calamari call for a light dusting of flour.  However, if you want calamari to take on color and crispiness, go for this delicate batter.

Ingredients

4 cups peanut oil

1 lb. cleaned squid, including tentacles

1 cup rice flour, separated

2 T cornstarch

2 ½ t baking powder

1 ½ t peanut oil

½ salt

1 t sugar

Directions

1. Heat oil in a Dutch oven to 375 degrees.

2. Slice squid bodies into 1/2–inch lengths

3. Make sure tentacles have no hard parts and slice in half lengthwise

4. Shake squid with ½ cup rice flour in a bag to coat.

5. Mix ½ cup rice flour, cornstarch, baking powder, peanut oil, salt and sugar  in a bowl.

6.  Stir in enough water, approximately 1/3 cup, to make a batter slightly thicker than heavy cream.

7. Coat squid with batter, a few pieces at a time, allowing excess to fall off, and lower into hot oil.

8. As squid browns on one side, gently flip over and brown the other side.  This will take only few minutes. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

9. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and perhaps a dipping sauce.

Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce

¼ cup sweet soy sauce

¼ t grated fresh ginger

½ t rice wine vinegar

¼ t toasted sesame oil

Dash of Sambal Oolek (optional)

Mix ingredients in a small bowl.  Thin slightly with water.

Tartar Sauce

2 large shallots, finely chopped

2 medium gherkins or cornichons, finely diced

2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 T parsley, finely chopped

1 cup mayonnaise

Salt and pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients and refrigerate until ready to use.

Recipes by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Crunchy Calamari

If you crave the crunchiest calamari, put the wheat flour aside and think tempura. We’re not talking about anything heavily coated here, but a light golden brown crispy coating using rice flour. Many recipes for fried calamari call for a light dusting of flour.  However, if you want calamari to take on color and crispiness, go for this delicate batter.

Ingredients

4 cups peanut oil

1 lb. cleaned squid, including tentacles

1 cup rice flour, separated

2 T cornstarch

2 ½ t baking powder

1 ½ t peanut oil

½ salt

1 t sugar

Directions

1. Heat oil in a Dutch oven to 375 degrees.

2. Slice squid bodies into 1/2–inch lengths

3. Make sure tentacles have no hard parts and slice in half lengthwise

4. Shake squid with ½ cup rice flour in a bag to coat.

5. Mix ½ cup rice flour, cornstarch, baking powder, peanut oil, salt and sugar  in a bowl.

6.  Stir in enough water, approximately 1/3 cup, to make a batter slightly thicker than heavy cream.

7. Coat squid with batter, a few pieces at a time, allowing excess to fall off, and lower into hot oil.

8. As squid browns on one side, gently flip over and brown the other side.  This will take only few minutes. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

9. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and perhaps a dipping sauce.

Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce

¼ cup sweet soy sauce

¼ t grated fresh ginger

½ t rice wine vinegar

¼ t toasted sesame oil

Dash of Sambal Oelek (optional)

Mix ingredients in a small bowl.  Thin slightly with water.

Tartar Sauce

2 large shallots, finely chopped

2 medium gherkins or cornichons, finely diced

2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 T parsley, finely chopped

1 cup mayonnaise

Salt and pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients and refrigerate until ready to use.

Recipes by href=”http://sweetpaprika.wordpress.com/archives/”>Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Photographer Bill Brady
Look for my book More Digital Food photography coming out May 9th.

Handmade Cheese Ravioli

 

Aside from being utterly delicious, ravioli are fun to make. Here is a

pillowy three-cheese version.  They freeze perfectly, so make enough for

another meal.

Basic Egg Pasta (yield: 1 ½ lbs. dough) 

3 ½ cups sifted all-purpose flour

4 large eggs

1 T water

½ t salt

Place flour, eggs, water and salt in bowl of food processor with metal

blade.  Pulse until dough comes together.  Remove dough from bowl and hand

knead until dough is smooth, about 2 minutes.  Divide into 4 balls, cover

with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 minutes. .  

Filling

12 oz. fresh ricotta cheese

4 oz. fresh smoked mozzarella, cut into a small dice

2 oz. Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated

2 large egg yolks

1/8 t ground nutmeg

2 T pignoli nuts, lightly toasted and chopped

2 T parsley, finely chopped

¼ t freshly ground black pepper

1 T heavy cream (Add if mixture seems dry.)

2 T salt (for water)

Mix together and chill until ready to use.

Using a hand cranked pasta machine or the pasta attachment for a stand

mixer, roll out one ball of dough.  Continue to fold and roll out on wide

rollers and then thin out the dough until setting # 6.  Cut one section of

pasta the width of your workspace.  Along the length of the sheet place

heaping teaspoons of filling about ¾ inch from edge and 1 1/2 inches apart.

Have a small bowl of water nearby to moisten one long edge and between each

mound of filling.  (Don’t moisten both long edges.)  Fold over dough and

press dough together with the side of your hand.  Make sure dough is sealed

around each mound of filling.  With a zigzagged pastry cutter, cut along the

long straight edge and between each mound of filling.  Place each ravioli on

a baking sheet lightly covered with flour.  Chill.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.  Add 2 T salt.  Gently add 9 or 10

ravioli and simmer for 4 minutes. Test one for doneness. Pull out ravioli

with a large slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.  Then add 9 or 10

more.  Serve with your favorite sauce.

 

Bolognese Sauce [ragu] (makes 2 ½ cups*)

2 T olive oil

2 T butter

¼ cup diced onion

3 T carrots in a small dice

3 T celery in a small dice

1 lb. ground chuck

2 t salt

¼ t freshly ground black pepper

1 cup dry white wine

½ cup milk

1/8 t freshly grated nutmeg

2 ½ cups canned Italian peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano.

In a 5 ½ -quart Dutch enameled cast iron Dutch oven or stainless steel pot,

place olive oil, butter and onions,  Sauté just until onions are

translucent.  Add carrots and celery and continue to cook gently for a few

minutes.  Break up the ground beef and add it to the pot.  Sprinkle with

salt and pepper and cook until meat has lost its red color.  Do not brown.

Add wine and increase heat to medium high and cook stirring from time to

time until wine evaporates.

Lower heat and add milk and nutmeg until milk evaporates.  The milk keeps

the meat sweet and creamy.  Stir in the tomatoes and break up with wooden

spoon.  When the sauce comes to a simmer, lower the heat to maintain the

barest simmer and continue cooking with the cover ajar for 3 ½ hours.  Stir

occasionally and taste for seasoning.

*It wouldn’t be a bad idea to double this recipe and reserve half for future

use.  It freezes perfectly.

 

Brown Butter and Sage Sauce

 

8 oz. unsalted butter, cut into 1 T chunks 

8 medium fresh sage leaves, chopped

I medium clove of garlic, minced

1 medium shallot, finely chopped 

Pinch of salt

Pinch of black pepper

2 T freshly grated Parmegiano Reggiano cheese

 

Melt butter in a medium hot skillet.  When it starts to brown, add sage

leaves.  Turn heat to low.  Add garlic, shallots, salt and pepper.  When the

mixture turns to a golden brown, add cheese .  Fold in well drained ravioli,

turn to coat and serve.

Simple Roasted Red Pepper Sauce

3 whole red bell peppers

2 T pine nuts (optional)

2 T olive oil

1/2 whole medium onion, finely diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ t salt

1/2 cup heavy cream

Flat leaf parsley, finely minced

Fresh Parmesan, shaved or grated

1/2 pound (to 1 pound) pasta.

Roast red peppers, and then place in a Ziploc bag to allow to sweat. Peel

the charred skins from the peppers, then removed seeds. Set aside.

Lightly toast pine nuts in a skillet. Set aside. 

Puree peppers with pine nuts. Set aside.

In a skillet or pot over medium heat, drizzle in olive oil. Add diced onions

and garlic and cook until soft. Pour in pepper puree and stir together. Add

plenty of salt. 

Pour in cream and stir to combine. Taste and add more salt, if necessary.

Fold in  cooked pasta.  Top with chopped parsley.

Photographer Bill Brady

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

More Digital Food Photography Book

For those of you who may have been wondering what happened to cook, shoot eat a food photographers journey, the blog it’s been a while. Where I have been you ask? I have been writing a book. I was commissioned to write a book called More Digital Food Photography.

The original title Digital Food Photography was written by one of my competitors around 6 years ago. When I was asked to author the second edition I jumped at the opportunity. The book is coming out on May 9th.

After the contract was signed I struggled to give shape to the central point. Shooting food professionally is one thing but distilling the method down so that people could understand it is another. As my good friend Mark Giovannini once said “pretend like I was from Mars and just landed in my spaceship, how would you explain it to me so I can understand it easily”.

I kept asking myself who is this book for? Finally it occurred to me it should be for anyone that wants to shoot food photography regardless of their level. I decided to break it up into simple ideas that could easily be understood.

What I arrived at was a step by step process that teaches photography using food as it’s subject. My thesis is that in order to take outstanding food photos you must learn photography in general. It’s concepts, rules and techniques. There are certain skills you have to learn to take any type of photograph but then to capture food images you need to learn the tricks of the trade so to speak.

I learned through experience and on the job training. I wanted to be able to convey the basics then build lessons for more complex studio images. The book became somewhat of challenge but once I started it shaped up nicely.

More to come on the book and the blog but I just wanted to reach out to my readers to tell them I’m back.

The book is available on Amazon for pre-order and is coming out May 9th. <http://www.amazon.com/MORE-Digital-Food-Photography-Brady/dp/1435454189/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333462428&sr=8-1>

I would urge you to consider buying it if you ever wanted to elevate your own images to a more professional level. We discuss everything from simple lighting with natural light to shooting in the commercial environment. We also discuss the business of photography, how to deal with clients and how to bid on jobs.

The book is for you the readers of this blog who strive to make your food images better. There are tips on food styling, ways to collaborate with other food  people to get a more professional result.

When first started out there were no guide books or blueprints into the professional photography world let alone into the high stakes food photography genre.

Here is the final photo from the food styling chapter where we detail how to style this dish.

A Colorful Combination for a Succulent Stir-fry  

Quick Vegetable Tofu Stir-fry (Serves 2 as a side dish)

A quick stir-fry can be made with just a few well chosen vegetables.  Put together a colorful combination and always start with a hot wok. Heat a little oil almost to the smoking point. Add the ingredients one at a time starting in the order of the cooking time required.  The stir-frying should take around 6 minutes from beginning to end.  Vegetables should remain crisp.

Ingredients

I red sweet pepper, cut into ¼-inch slices

1 yellow sweet pepper, cut into ¼-inch slices

¼ lb. snow peas, strings removed

1 head baby bok choy, cut into bite-sized pieces

2 pieces firm tofu, cut in half horizontally, then cut into ½-inch cubes

2 T peanut oil

1 T dry sherry

2 T soy sauce

½ t sugar

¼ cup chicken broth (or water)

Directions

1. Add oil to a hot wok.

2. Add both sweet pepper slices and stir-fry for 1 minute.

3.  Add snow peas and stir-fry for 30 seconds

4. Add bok choy pieces and stir-fry another 30 seconds.

5. Add tofu and gently fold in.

6. Add the sherry, soy sauce and sugar one at a time.

7. Add chicken broth, bring to a boil and cover.

8. Turn heat to medium and cook for 3 to 4 minutes until broth is almost absorbed. Taste for salt. Serve over rice.

Selecting and Seasoning a Wok

Good news:  The best wok, carbon steel, sometimes called rolled steel,  also happens to be the least expensive.  Carbon steel will rust so you have to season it and take proper care of it.  However, it is light weight, will take on a black patina over time and nothing will stick to it.  Cast iron is too heavy to maneuver and will interact with acetic ingredients.  Stainless steel, also heavy, will be more expensive.  An electric wok is out of the question as you cannot take food quickly off the heat or manipulate the wok.

Carbon steel is the way to go.  A new wok may be covered with machine oil which must be washed off with detergent and a plastic scrubber or brush.  Never use steel wool on a wok.  Dry the wok and place it on a top burner until the entire surface is hot.  Douse a wad of a rolled up piece of paper towel with peanut (or vegetable) oil and using tongs, wipe the entire surface.  Heat for 10 minutes.  Let cool.  With clean paper towels, wipe out wok.  Repeat this process two more times.

The first couple of times you use a wok, there may be a slight metallic taste, but this will soon wear off. After each use, wash with hot water and detergent and dry thoroughly.  At the beginning, rub with oil again.  After a short while this will not be necessary and in time you will have a beautiful shiny black wok on which nothing will stick.

I prefer a metal spatula for stir frying.  Wooden spatulas quickly discolor and don’t slide cleanly under the food.

Stir Frying

First of all, “stir frying” is a misnomer.  There is no stirring in stir frying. The technique is to slide the spatula underneath the food at the center of the wok, lift it up and turn it over. Then  repeat this procedure from a different angle. Thus, the top surface becomes the bottom surface and all gets cooked evenly. Always heat your wok first before adding the oil and get it as hot as possible without burning the oil.   Happy woking!

Recipe and commentary by Phyllis Kirigin

<http://www.studio212photo.com> Bill Brady Photography

Italian Style Shrimp Happy Good Friday

A spectacular shrimp recipe featuring one of the seven fish dishes prepared in our documentary the Feast of the 7 Fishes http://www/7fishes.com. 

 

 

Italian Style Shrimp, Broiled or Grilled (serves 6)

 

These delicate morsels are a far cry from those heavily breaded deep fried

shrimp served in so many restaurants.  These are not battered fried but

enrobed in a light coating of olive oil, bread crumbs and seasonings to

provide a delicate protective covering and then broiled.  

You must use your own judgment in the perfect amount of oil and breadcrumbs.

This will vary depending on the size of the shrimp as smaller shrimp have

more surface area and will require a bit more oil.  There should be just

enough oil to coat the shrimp and just enough breadcrumbs to retain the oil

and provide a thin coating.  Be sure to use the best quality shrimp you can

find. 

 

Ingredients

1 ½ lbs. large shrimp

3 T extra virgin olive oil

3 T vegetable oil (I prefer peanut oil)

2/3 cup fine dry plain breadcrumbs

½ t freshly grated lemon rind

½ t minced garlic

2 t finely minced parsley

¾ t salt

1/4 t freshly ground black pepper

Lemon wedges

 

Directions

1. Peel and devein shrimp leaving tails intact.  Rinse under cold water and

pat dry.

2. In a bowl large enough to generously accommodate shrimp, mix both oils

and then the shrimp.  Toss. 

3. Add as many breadcrumbs as needed to form a light, even coating.

4. Add lemon zest, garlic, salt and pepper.  Toss again and allow to rest 15

minutes before proceeding.

5. Place on a lightly oiled grill rack under a hot broiler or on a stove top

grill pan for 2 to 3 minutes per side, no longer than it takes to form a

crisp, golden crust.  

6. Serve immediately with lemon wedges.  If you’d like a change from the

ubiquitous marinara dipping sauce, make some tartar sauce to serve

alongside.

(Adapted from a recipe by Marcella Hazan) 

 

Tartar Sauce

2 medium shallots, finely chopped

2 medium gherkins or cornichons, finely diced

2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 T parsley, finely chopped

1 cup mayonnaise

Salt and pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients and refrigerate until ready to use.

 

Recipe by Phyllis Kirigin

 

BillBradyPhotography

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A National Treasure: The Classic American Burger

Can there be a better burger than the good old classic American?  Sure, a hamburger can be gussied up to a towering height with bacon, avocado, mushrooms, jalapeno peppers, and toppings ad infinitum, but can the classic hamburger really be improved upon?  Sometimes it’s best to stick with the simple and time tested. The most important step in assuring a great burger is using the right ground beef.  Ground chuck or a combination of ground chuck and sirloin, 80 % lean, is good.  Handle it gently. Don’t compact it.  Form 3 patties from each pound of ground beef. 

Cook on a medium hot grill or, if using a stove top skillet, sprinkle with salt.   Cook for about 4 minutes per side for medium rare. Salt and pepper, of course.  Don’t press down with a spatula.  A lightly toasted potato roll goes well. A slice of ripe tomato, red onion and leafy lettuce are not amiss.  Cheese—a warm melt of cheddar can’t hurt.  Pickles, ok, but don’t add more than you can get your mouth around, that is, unless you don’t mind the burger slipping out the other side or requiring the knife and fork treatment. Open an icy cold beer and enjoy!

A Classic Burger Sauce (Double or triple recipe as needed)

2 T mayonnaise

1 T ketchup

½ t sweet pickle relish

1/2 t sugar

½ t white wine vinegar

¼ t black pepper

Whisk ingredients together in a small bowl. 

Recipe by Phyllis Kirigin <<…>>    

Photography by Bill Brady

 

If you ever wondered how a shot like this was created my look for my new book a comprehensive guide on how to shoot and style food titled More Digital Food Photography available for pre-order on amazon.com.
This image comes from the styling chapter and gives step by step instructions on how to style a hamburger.  

 

http://www.studio212photo.com

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Peppers, Peppers…and More Peppers

Being raised in a strong tradition of Southern Italian cuisine, I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing the most creative uses of nature’s simplest ingredients. Peppers were most assuredly one of them. Green and red bell peppers, slender fryers – both hot and sweet – pepperoncini, you name it. They all made an appearance on my mother’s dinner table in the most luscious ways imaginable.

Where to start? Well, one of my favorites was stuffed peppers. Mom actually had two versions in her culinary repertoire. When using sweet, red bell peppers she would stuff them with a mixture of ground beef, onions, garlic, parsley, Parmigiano and rice. Covered with a bit of marinara (simple red sauce) they were popped into the oven until tender. Really nice. My favorites, though, were the long fryers. She’d split them in half and stuff them with a mixture of breadcrumb, garlic, parsley, Parmigiano, anchovies and olive oil. They were then baked until the breadcrumb was nicely browned. I ate copious amounts. Still do.

Another favorite growing up was what my mother’s mother called giambotta. Most definitely a peasant dish, this is a simple stew of red and green bell peppers, tomatoes, onions and potatoes which is served as a side dish. I’ve actually called it dinner, with lots of crusty bread and a good Chianti. Another one of Nonna’s best dishes were roasted red peppers. She would char them whole on the stove top burner. When they were done, they went into a paper bag to steam off the blackened skin. Then they were seeded, sliced and dressed with extra virgin olive oil, garlic and parsley. Simple, yes. Exquisite, most certainly.

Of course, no Southern Italian summer menu would be complete without the addition of sausage and peppers. There are so many ways to prepare this. My preferred method is to grill the sausage, cut them into bite size pieces and keep warm. I then sauté red or green peppers with lots of onions and garlic until tender, and combine the sausage into the mixture. At this point, you may add some tomato sauce and bake for a while – as the Neapolitans are wont to do. I keep it simple and serve as is. Nothing like it.

Now, I know what you’re thinking. Enough with the Italian stuff. Yes, it’s true. Italians don’t own peppers! And, being the consummate foodie, I enjoy them in any cuisine. Asian, for instance. What would a good stir fry be without the addition of peppers? Latino cuisine as well. I mean, without peppers a good sofrito wouldn’t be very good at all. And I don’t know where Mexican cooking would be without the pepper – especially chiles. But we’ll explore that in another blog. Even our own American fare makes use of sweet peppers. We include them in our salads, stews and good old fashioned home fries. We even add them to omelets for color and depth of flavor. As for pepper soup? Why not! Try Phyllis’ recipe below. It’s a winner.

So what is it about the pepper that makes it so coveted by so many lovers of the culinary arts? When working with the red bell, I believe it’s the inherent sweetness it possesses. As for the green bell, it imparts a nice freshness and aroma that is reminiscent of a home garden. The spicier varieties appeal to the more adventurous. But more than that, I believe is a textural thing as well. In their cooked state, peppers are somewhat meaty and add nice body to any dish. In their raw state, it’s the crunch that I look for. I’m sure you do as well.

Where are you with peppers in your kitchen? As always, I suggest creativity. Make a nice pepper and chicken sauté. Fry up some peppers and onions and enjoy them as a side to your steak. Dice them and mix them into your chicken salad. Have fun, and let me know what you come up with. I’m looking to expand my pepper horizons.

Victor Ribaudo

Roasted Yellow Pepper Soup

The perfect first course for a cool brisk autumn day is this golden savory
roasted yellow pepper soup. A light soup yet bursting with the heady flavor
of sun-ripened peppers, it’s quite easy to make. The secret is the roasting
of the peppers. Bring them to a blackened char and soft interior in the
oven and by no means dilute their flavor by taking the peel off under water.
A crusty ciabatta, delicate salad and grilled meat will add up to a
wonderful meal.
Ingredients
6 medium sweet yellow peppers
2 T unsalted butter
2 medium yellow onions, cut into a small dice
1 t salt (1/2 if using salted chicken broth)
¼ t white pepper
1 t freshly roasted and ground cumin
2 cloves garlic, mashed and chopped
2 T flour
4 cups chicken broth (or vegetable)
2 cups whole milk
Crème fraiche and roasted red pepper powder for garnish
Procedure
1. Rinse and dry peppers and place on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Roast
in a 400 degree oven until blackened, turning from time to time.
2. Remove from oven and place in a bowl covered with plastic wrap while
proceeding with recipe.
3. Melt butter in a large pot and add onions, salt, pepper and cumin and
cook until translucent.
4. Add garlic and continue to cook until fragrant. Sprinkle on flour,
stirring and cooking for two minutes. Stir in chicken broth and bring to a
simmer.
5. Pull the skins off the peppers (not under the faucet) and discard seeds,
membrane and stem.
6. Roughly chop peppers and add to pot. Simmer 10 minutes.
7. Stir in milk.
8. Puree in food processor. Pour back in pot and heat gently.
9. Serve in heated soup plates with a garnish of crème fraiche and a light
sprinkle of roasted red pepper powder. Serve 5 – 6.

Photographer Bill Brady

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

An Ear for Corn

As the song goes, “I’m as corny as Kansas in August… .” And I proudly admit it. The end of the summer most assuredly sets my mind on certain culinary treats – and fresh corn is definitely one of them. Oh, there are bushels of it available throughout the summer, to be sure. However, this time of year offers the last chance to sample the local harvest and that makes it all the more sweet. So off I drive to suburban and yes, rural areas surrounding New York City in search of those golden kernels on the cob.

Sweet is the word I most often use when describing the glories of fresh corn. If it’s a good crop, and not too starchy, there’s a natural sweetness to the stuff that just can’t be described unless you’re lucky enough to taste it. And for me, preparation of fresh corn is a simple task. After husking and removing the silk, I throw it in boiling water for a few minutes and there you have it. Others put some milk in the water – even butter. It doesn’t hurt, but in my estimation it’s unnecessary. Boiled in plain water and served with a pat of creamery butter and a sprinkling of salt and I’m good for at least three ears in one sitting.

Now, that’s not to say that I don’t sometimes throw caution to the wind and set my ears of sweetness on the grill. When leaving the husks on, I soak them in water for a while so they don’t burn too quickly over the coals. If I’m placing the ears on the grill in the buff, I generously slather plenty of olive on them first. There’s something to be said for the caramelizing that occurs when those lovely kernels sport a nice char. If done correctly, it adds to the sweetness and intensifies the flavor.
(Look for the recipe in the upcoming book I Love Corn by Lisa Skye, published by Andrews McMeel; available next year.)

Now, for those of you who have read my articles before, you know that I’m not one to leave well enough alone. That’s to say, I dabble in plenty of corn cuisine. After all, when you take something really sweet and add it to your favorite recipes, the end result is, well, sweeter! Corn chowder is a good example of this. Phyllis Kirigin has offered her most excellent recipe below, and I strongly suggest you try it. It’s delicious.

The simplest way to incorporate fresh corn – boiled or grilled – into everyday fare is to add it to your salads. Bean salads, pasta salads, potato salads…even a tossed green salad. However, I particularly like to add corn to my crabmeat salad. Corn and crab are made for each other. Just take fresh lump crabmeat, corn, onion, celery, mayonnaise and a bit of hot sauce (to balance out the sweetness), gently combine and serve on a hot dog bun. Simple, but really satisfying. Even my crab cakes are set on a sauce of corn, which is basically home-made creamed corn that has been pureed and spiked with a kick of hot sauce. Again, simple but incredibly delicious.

Corn fritters are another favorite of mine. I take a basic fritter batter and add copious amounts of fresh corn and some chopped scallion as a counterfoil to the sweetness. Be sure to fry up plenty, because they move like hot cakes. The same happens when you add some fresh corn to your cornbread recipe. I like the texture of the kernels, as well as the burst of fresh flavor they impart to the bread. Add some chopped jalapenos if you’re feeling frisky.

By the way, I’m not averse to using canned or frozen corn in my recipes when I have to. It’s just that when the real thing is available, why not reach for the stars?

Oh, there’s no end to the corn cuisine you can create. You’ll find plenty of recipes online and in cookbooks. In fact, there’s a cookbook due to release called “I love Corn” by Lisa Skye. Keep an eye – and an ear – out for it.

Victor Ribaudo

End of Summer Corn Chowder
Sweet, fresh corn is at its peak at the farmers markets. Don’t miss this opportunity to create a creamy and flavorful corn chowder. 4 servings
Ingredients
1 T butter
1 oz. bacon (preferably a thick sliced chunk)
½ cup chopped carrot
½ cup chopped celery
½ cup chopped onion
3 ears of corn
4 cups milk
1 Turkish bay leaf
1 medium Yukon Gold potato cut into a small dice
1 t salt
1/8 t freshly ground black pepper
½ t chopped fresh thyme
1 plum tomato, seeds and pulp removed, cut in a small dice
1/4 cup water mixed with 3 T masa harina or corn meal

Directions
1. Melt butter in a large saucepan. Add bacon. Fry about 4 minutes but don’t brown.
2. Add carrots, celery and onions.
3. Cut the kernels off the corn and put aside. Cut the cobs in half and add to saucepan.
4. Add milk and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover pot and continue to cook at a bare simmer for 30 minutes. Be careful not to scald milk in the bottom of the saucepan.
5. Discard cobs, bacon and bay leaf.
7. Add potatoes, salt and pepper and simmer about 15 minutes until potatoes are tender.
8. Add corn kernels, thyme and tomato. If chowder needs thickening, stir in a slurry of masa harina and water.
9. Simmer 5 minutes and serve.

Photographer Bill Brady

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

Pork in the ‘que!

Not being from the South, I had no reference for good ole pork barbecue growing up. I mean, I am from the South of Brooklyn, NY (not to be confused with the neighborhood of “South Brooklyn,” which is actually situated in the North portion of the borough), but that doesn’t really fly here. I’m talkin’ authentic North Carolina or Tennessee pulled pork and ribs. Nevertheless, with some southern traveling under my belt and an obsession for food TV, I’ve adopted quite an obsession for the stuff.

We’ve all seen them. Those barbecue cook-off shows situated somewhere deep in the Swanee. Pit connoisseurs fastidiously tending to their pork shoulders or ribs in either commercial or homemade smokers – for hours and hours. I’ve been on the receiving end of some of those meals. Brined and rubbed with secret recipe spices, there’s something about smoke and slow cooking that just makes certain cuts of pork a magically satisfying culinary experience. Then there’s the sauce. Unlike some of us Northern amateurs, Southerners don’t slather on the sauce before cooking. That step comes after the cooking is done.

Speaking of barbecue sauces, some prefer North Carolina style – a vinegar based concoction with a hint of brown sugar sweetness and a lot of spicy kick. You, on the other hand, might go for Tennessee’s tomato-based sticky, red and sweet variety. If you’re lucky the chef will have laced it with some whiskey. Or head on over to Texas, where although they specialize in smoked beef brisket, their thinner, spicier tomato-based sauces will do just fine on any pulled pork or rib you can cook up.

So, how do you enjoy pulled pork? Well, for those of you who aren’t familiar with this classic, it’s called “pulled” because the pork is so tender that you can actually shred pieces of it with a fork. You’ll usually find it served up generously on a roll, smothered in sauce and piled high with plenty of home-style cole slaw. Believe me, there’s nothing more succulent. Whatever sauce you choose, you’ll experience an explosion of juicy sweetness, tartness and spice that will definitely taste like some more! As for ribs, you know the deal. Just start eating, and have plenty of moist hand wipes to go around.

I know what you’re thinking: I’m not purchasing a smoker and sticking it in my backyard, next to the pool house. Well, leave it to Phyllis Kirigan – or her son, in this case – to come up with a simply smashing way to prepare a pork shoulder in the oven that will knock your socks off, so to speak. Check out her pulled pork recipe below.

Now, not to leave my Mom out of this equation, who wouldn’t know a pulled pork sandwich from a meatball hero, she does have her own way of barbecuing pork that is somewhat curious, but always surprisingly delicious. She is, after all, from the South – of Italy, that is. In any event, she takes that jarred, duck sauce like stuff that’s laden with apricots and marinates her pork chops and ribs in it over night. The next day, my Dad grills them up. Screaming about the sticky mess they’re making on the grill, of course. Well, it’s hard to believe, but they’re actually very good. I know, it’s not the real deal. However, if you don’t find yourself south of the Mason-Dixon Line and don’t feel like heading off to a barbecue joint in town, this is an option in a pinch.

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Barbecue and pork really is a match made in heaven. Please be sure to get your hands on the real deal next time your down South. Some of those places are hopping, I assure you. So you might have to stand in ‘que. But it will be worth it.

Victor Ribaudo

Pulled pork is one of the South’s most popular dishes. However, you don’t have to seek out a North Carolina barbecue joint to enjoy this tender, savory delight. In fact, you don’t even need a barbecue pit. My son Chris created this juicy pulled pork last week for 50 hungry Long Islanders. It disappeared in a flash.

I have cut down his recipe to serve 8. It’s imperative to top a pulled pork sandwich with a tart cole slaw or cucumber dill pickles or both. And then, what to serve it on? Some prefer a crusty roll, but Chris likes a quality soft bun that will better soak up the barbecue sauce. Some recipes call for braising the pork and basting it from time to time. Chris did neither and the pork came out moist and succulent.

Ingredients

1 pork shoulder, about 6 – 8 lbs.

3 T dark brown sugar

1 t onion powder

1 t garlic powder

1 T salt

1 T ground cumin

1 T smoked paprika

1 T freshly ground black pepper

Procedure

Trim excess fat from pork shoulder. Place pork in a baking dish. Combine sugar, onion and garlic powder, salt, cumin, paprika and black pepper. Rub over pork to coat. Place in refrigerator at least 3 hours. Bring pork to room temperature. P lace in a roasting pan fat side up in a 225 degree oven.

Slow cook until meat is fork tender and the temperature is 160 degrees. This will take 6 to 7 hours. Let rest. Take 2 forks and pull apart into shreds and place in a bowl.

Barbecue Sauce

Ingredients

1 cup ketchup

1 T mustard

2 T molasses

1 cup apple cider

3 T dark brown sugar

½ t crushed red pepper

Procedure

Combine ingredients in a saucepan and whisk to dissolve sugar. Cook over medium heat until sauce comes to a simmer. Simmer very gently for 10 minutes. Mix the barbecue sauce into the pork shreds until well coated and serve alongside buns, cole slaw and pickles. Let guests put together their own sandwiches.

In the unlikely event there are leftovers, consider making pork tacos or pork hash.

Chris’ Cole Slaw

Barbecued pulled pork cries out for the cool crunch of cole slaw. Chris’ special combination produces a tangy flavor and a colorful presentation. Be sure to cut the cabbage and fennel as thinly as possible.

Ingredients

ad green cabbage

1 small head red cabbage

1 fennel bulb

2 carrots

1/2 Vidalia onion

3/4 cup mayonnaise

1 T white Balsamic vinegar

1 t celery seeds

1 t salt

1/2 t freshly ground pepper

Procedure

Cut each head of cabbage in half and then in quarters. Cut out the hard core. Slice wedges as thinly as possible and place in a large bowl. Cut fennel bulb in quarters and slice thinly. Set aside fronds for another use. Shred carrots in a food processor using fine disk. Slice onion thinly. Add everything to bowl.

Whisk together mayonnaise, vinegar, celery seeds, salt and pepper. Pour dressing over slaw and toss. Cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours. Toss again every 15 minutes or so to make sure flavors meld and again just before serving.

Photographer Bill Brady http://bit.ly/9wFYxm
Food Stylist Brian Preston Campbell
Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika http://sweetpaprika.wordpress.com http://sweetpaprika.wordpress.com

Steak Your Claim!

Vegetarians please don’t despair. We’ll be writing plenty of blogs that will appeal to your fancies. For you carnivores, though, please keep reading. We’re talking steak this week. For me, it’s a primal thing. Pure beef. Unadulterated. Thrown on the grill and done up medium rare. Is there anything more satisfying? I think not.

As a kid steak didn’t really appeal to me. It was something we had for dinner every Saturday night. (Was Saturday steak night at your home too?) However, when I was a bit older, my family started a Christmas Season tradition. We’d spend an evening doing those great things one does in New York City that time of year. Window shopping on Fifth Avenue, the Christmas tree in Rockefeller Center, the Rockettes Show at Radio City Music Hall. The best part of the evening, however, was dinner at Ruth’s Chris. There are fancier, more expensive steak houses in the city. But there was something about Ruth’s steak that really was irresistible. Perhaps it was the butter served atop those sizzling cuts that got to me. I don’t know. Nevertheless, I’ve been a steak fanatic ever since.

Besides those Christmastime visits to Ruth’s Chris which we still, by the way, treat ourselves to every season, I particularly look forward to steak this time of year. Grilling a steak is my favorite way to prepare it. Whether it’s a t-bone, strip or hanger steak nothing takes to the flavor that charcoal imparts better. I prefer mine medium rare, but I’m very accommodating. I’ll prepare yours anyone way you like. Nothing elaborate, mind you. A simple sprinkling of salt and freshly ground pepper and you’re ready to go with it.

For as much as I’m a backyard BBQ enthusiast, I’m not really a purist. I’ll take steak anyway you serve it. So if you want to panfry mine, or broil it for me, I’ll be there with a bottle of wine to enjoy the meal. Need to get up market with it? Do it au poivre. Coat the steak with peppercorns and panfry. Create a pan sauce of reduced cognac and heavy cream. Oh, be sure to make the sauce in the same pan you cooked the steak. You want to get all the brown goodness in your sauce. Or perhaps you’re looking for something a little brighter? Why not ladle a bit of béarnaise sauce over your steak. The butter, egg yolk and tarragon mixture is the perfect counterfoil to the earthiness of the meat. Please don’t buy bottled béarnaise, though. It’s easy to prepare, and recipes abound.

I could write tomes about different cuts of steak. The best way to find your fit is to try them all. As for aging, I do preferred dry aged steaks (as opposed to wet aged). And always Prime for me. A bit more expensive, but definitely worth it.

As for sides, well I am a bit of a purist here. With my steak au poivre, nothing will do except for mashed potatoes and steamed asparagus. When béarnaise is on the plate, I want a baked potato and creamed spinach. When it’s just steak, some French fries and sautéed mushrooms must accompany. I know, these are all sides you find at the steakhouses. I can’t help it. Guess I just keep returning to Ruth’s Chris!

Before I go, just a quick word about steak sauce: unnecessary! I’m sorry, I get a bit crazy where steak is concerned. But tell me, why would you want to smother a kicked up version of Worcestershire sauce on such a beautiful thing as steak? I’m not judging. Enjoy however you please. That’s why steak exists.

Victor Ribaudo

Crank Up the BBQ–Grilled Ribeye Steak

Great steaks aren’t cooked, they’re bought; the important work is done
before you ever leave the shop. Ruth Reichl in
Garlic and Sapphires

A great steak from aged grass-fed beef can’t be beat. It doesn’t need a rub
massaged into it to mask the flavor. Its own beefy flavor is sublime. Does
Peter Luger use a rub? I think not. Select steaks at least 1 ½ inches
thick and nicely marbled. This means a fine marbling of fat throughout, not
big pockets of fat and, in no case, totally lean. It’s true that fat carries
flavor plus providing more tender meat. I really like Cheryl Smith’s recipe
for ribeye. She does include a brief rest for the steak in garlic, olive
oil and fresh thyme, but then the garlic and thyme are removed before
grilling.
Optional: Serve it with a creamy gorgonzola sauce. Suggested
accompaniments are sautéed spinach and shoestring potatoes.

Ingredients:
2 (10-oz.) ribeye steaks from grass-fed beef (preferably aged)
3 cloves garlic, sliced
6 sprigs fresh thyme, crushed
3 T extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Procedure:
1. Place steak in a dish along with garlic, thyme and olive oil. Turn the
steak over from time to time and allow it to marinate for one hour.
2. Heat a grill to medium high.
3. Remove garlic and thyme and season steak with salt and pepper.
4. Grill to desired doneness turning only once.
5. Remove from grill and cover with aluminum foil for five minutes before
serving.

Gorgonzola Dolce Cream Sauce

Ingredients:
2 T unsalted butter
2 T finely diced onions
1 T fresh thyme leaves
1 T all-purpose flour
1 cup heavy cream
2 T dry sherry
½ to 1 cup gorgonzola dolce cheese
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Procedure:
1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan.
2. Add the onions, thyme and then whisk in the flour.
3. Cook the flour one minute.
4. Add the heavy cream and dry sherry and continue to whisk. Bring the
mixture to a simmer.
5. After about 2 minutes of simmering add cheese to melt. Season with salt
and pepper. Serve on top of steak or on the side. Serves 2.
Adapted from Cheryl Smith

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com