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Can there be a better burger than the good old classic American?  Sure, a hamburger can be gussied up to a towering height with bacon, avocado, mushrooms, jalapeno peppers, and toppings ad infinitum, but can the classic hamburger really be improved upon?  Sometimes it’s best to stick with the simple and time tested. The most important step in assuring a great burger is using the right ground beef.  Ground chuck or a combination of ground chuck and sirloin, 80 % lean, is good.  Handle it gently. Don’t compact it.  Form 3 patties from each pound of ground beef. 

Cook on a medium hot grill or, if using a stove top skillet, sprinkle with salt.   Cook for about 4 minutes per side for medium rare. Salt and pepper, of course.  Don’t press down with a spatula.  A lightly toasted potato roll goes well. A slice of ripe tomato, red onion and leafy lettuce are not amiss.  Cheese—a warm melt of cheddar can’t hurt.  Pickles, ok, but don’t add more than you can get your mouth around, that is, unless you don’t mind the burger slipping out the other side or requiring the knife and fork treatment. Open an icy cold beer and enjoy!

A Classic Burger Sauce (Double or triple recipe as needed)

2 T mayonnaise

1 T ketchup

½ t sweet pickle relish

1/2 t sugar

½ t white wine vinegar

¼ t black pepper

Whisk ingredients together in a small bowl. 

Recipe by Phyllis Kirigin <<…>>    

Photography by Bill Brady

 

If you ever wondered how a shot like this was created my look for my new book a comprehensive guide on how to shoot and style food titled More Digital Food Photography available for pre-order on amazon.com.
This image comes from the styling chapter and gives step by step instructions on how to style a hamburger.  

 

http://www.studio212photo.com

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Peppers, Peppers…and More Peppers

Being raised in a strong tradition of Southern Italian cuisine, I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing the most creative uses of nature’s simplest ingredients. Peppers were most assuredly one of them. Green and red bell peppers, slender fryers – both hot and sweet – pepperoncini, you name it. They all made an appearance on my mother’s dinner table in the most luscious ways imaginable.

Where to start? Well, one of my favorites was stuffed peppers. Mom actually had two versions in her culinary repertoire. When using sweet, red bell peppers she would stuff them with a mixture of ground beef, onions, garlic, parsley, Parmigiano and rice. Covered with a bit of marinara (simple red sauce) they were popped into the oven until tender. Really nice. My favorites, though, were the long fryers. She’d split them in half and stuff them with a mixture of breadcrumb, garlic, parsley, Parmigiano, anchovies and olive oil. They were then baked until the breadcrumb was nicely browned. I ate copious amounts. Still do.

Another favorite growing up was what my mother’s mother called giambotta. Most definitely a peasant dish, this is a simple stew of red and green bell peppers, tomatoes, onions and potatoes which is served as a side dish. I’ve actually called it dinner, with lots of crusty bread and a good Chianti. Another one of Nonna’s best dishes were roasted red peppers. She would char them whole on the stove top burner. When they were done, they went into a paper bag to steam off the blackened skin. Then they were seeded, sliced and dressed with extra virgin olive oil, garlic and parsley. Simple, yes. Exquisite, most certainly.

Of course, no Southern Italian summer menu would be complete without the addition of sausage and peppers. There are so many ways to prepare this. My preferred method is to grill the sausage, cut them into bite size pieces and keep warm. I then sauté red or green peppers with lots of onions and garlic until tender, and combine the sausage into the mixture. At this point, you may add some tomato sauce and bake for a while – as the Neapolitans are wont to do. I keep it simple and serve as is. Nothing like it.

Now, I know what you’re thinking. Enough with the Italian stuff. Yes, it’s true. Italians don’t own peppers! And, being the consummate foodie, I enjoy them in any cuisine. Asian, for instance. What would a good stir fry be without the addition of peppers? Latino cuisine as well. I mean, without peppers a good sofrito wouldn’t be very good at all. And I don’t know where Mexican cooking would be without the pepper – especially chiles. But we’ll explore that in another blog. Even our own American fare makes use of sweet peppers. We include them in our salads, stews and good old fashioned home fries. We even add them to omelets for color and depth of flavor. As for pepper soup? Why not! Try Phyllis’ recipe below. It’s a winner.

So what is it about the pepper that makes it so coveted by so many lovers of the culinary arts? When working with the red bell, I believe it’s the inherent sweetness it possesses. As for the green bell, it imparts a nice freshness and aroma that is reminiscent of a home garden. The spicier varieties appeal to the more adventurous. But more than that, I believe is a textural thing as well. In their cooked state, peppers are somewhat meaty and add nice body to any dish. In their raw state, it’s the crunch that I look for. I’m sure you do as well.

Where are you with peppers in your kitchen? As always, I suggest creativity. Make a nice pepper and chicken sauté. Fry up some peppers and onions and enjoy them as a side to your steak. Dice them and mix them into your chicken salad. Have fun, and let me know what you come up with. I’m looking to expand my pepper horizons.

Victor Ribaudo

Roasted Yellow Pepper Soup

The perfect first course for a cool brisk autumn day is this golden savory
roasted yellow pepper soup. A light soup yet bursting with the heady flavor
of sun-ripened peppers, it’s quite easy to make. The secret is the roasting
of the peppers. Bring them to a blackened char and soft interior in the
oven and by no means dilute their flavor by taking the peel off under water.
A crusty ciabatta, delicate salad and grilled meat will add up to a
wonderful meal.
Ingredients
6 medium sweet yellow peppers
2 T unsalted butter
2 medium yellow onions, cut into a small dice
1 t salt (1/2 if using salted chicken broth)
¼ t white pepper
1 t freshly roasted and ground cumin
2 cloves garlic, mashed and chopped
2 T flour
4 cups chicken broth (or vegetable)
2 cups whole milk
Crème fraiche and roasted red pepper powder for garnish
Procedure
1. Rinse and dry peppers and place on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Roast
in a 400 degree oven until blackened, turning from time to time.
2. Remove from oven and place in a bowl covered with plastic wrap while
proceeding with recipe.
3. Melt butter in a large pot and add onions, salt, pepper and cumin and
cook until translucent.
4. Add garlic and continue to cook until fragrant. Sprinkle on flour,
stirring and cooking for two minutes. Stir in chicken broth and bring to a
simmer.
5. Pull the skins off the peppers (not under the faucet) and discard seeds,
membrane and stem.
6. Roughly chop peppers and add to pot. Simmer 10 minutes.
7. Stir in milk.
8. Puree in food processor. Pour back in pot and heat gently.
9. Serve in heated soup plates with a garnish of crème fraiche and a light
sprinkle of roasted red pepper powder. Serve 5 – 6.

Photographer Bill Brady

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

An Ear for Corn

As the song goes, “I’m as corny as Kansas in August… .” And I proudly admit it. The end of the summer most assuredly sets my mind on certain culinary treats – and fresh corn is definitely one of them. Oh, there are bushels of it available throughout the summer, to be sure. However, this time of year offers the last chance to sample the local harvest and that makes it all the more sweet. So off I drive to suburban and yes, rural areas surrounding New York City in search of those golden kernels on the cob.

Sweet is the word I most often use when describing the glories of fresh corn. If it’s a good crop, and not too starchy, there’s a natural sweetness to the stuff that just can’t be described unless you’re lucky enough to taste it. And for me, preparation of fresh corn is a simple task. After husking and removing the silk, I throw it in boiling water for a few minutes and there you have it. Others put some milk in the water – even butter. It doesn’t hurt, but in my estimation it’s unnecessary. Boiled in plain water and served with a pat of creamery butter and a sprinkling of salt and I’m good for at least three ears in one sitting.

Now, that’s not to say that I don’t sometimes throw caution to the wind and set my ears of sweetness on the grill. When leaving the husks on, I soak them in water for a while so they don’t burn too quickly over the coals. If I’m placing the ears on the grill in the buff, I generously slather plenty of olive on them first. There’s something to be said for the caramelizing that occurs when those lovely kernels sport a nice char. If done correctly, it adds to the sweetness and intensifies the flavor.
(Look for the recipe in the upcoming book I Love Corn by Lisa Skye, published by Andrews McMeel; available next year.)

Now, for those of you who have read my articles before, you know that I’m not one to leave well enough alone. That’s to say, I dabble in plenty of corn cuisine. After all, when you take something really sweet and add it to your favorite recipes, the end result is, well, sweeter! Corn chowder is a good example of this. Phyllis Kirigin has offered her most excellent recipe below, and I strongly suggest you try it. It’s delicious.

The simplest way to incorporate fresh corn – boiled or grilled – into everyday fare is to add it to your salads. Bean salads, pasta salads, potato salads…even a tossed green salad. However, I particularly like to add corn to my crabmeat salad. Corn and crab are made for each other. Just take fresh lump crabmeat, corn, onion, celery, mayonnaise and a bit of hot sauce (to balance out the sweetness), gently combine and serve on a hot dog bun. Simple, but really satisfying. Even my crab cakes are set on a sauce of corn, which is basically home-made creamed corn that has been pureed and spiked with a kick of hot sauce. Again, simple but incredibly delicious.

Corn fritters are another favorite of mine. I take a basic fritter batter and add copious amounts of fresh corn and some chopped scallion as a counterfoil to the sweetness. Be sure to fry up plenty, because they move like hot cakes. The same happens when you add some fresh corn to your cornbread recipe. I like the texture of the kernels, as well as the burst of fresh flavor they impart to the bread. Add some chopped jalapenos if you’re feeling frisky.

By the way, I’m not averse to using canned or frozen corn in my recipes when I have to. It’s just that when the real thing is available, why not reach for the stars?

Oh, there’s no end to the corn cuisine you can create. You’ll find plenty of recipes online and in cookbooks. In fact, there’s a cookbook due to release called “I love Corn” by Lisa Skye. Keep an eye – and an ear – out for it.

Victor Ribaudo

End of Summer Corn Chowder
Sweet, fresh corn is at its peak at the farmers markets. Don’t miss this opportunity to create a creamy and flavorful corn chowder. 4 servings
Ingredients
1 T butter
1 oz. bacon (preferably a thick sliced chunk)
½ cup chopped carrot
½ cup chopped celery
½ cup chopped onion
3 ears of corn
4 cups milk
1 Turkish bay leaf
1 medium Yukon Gold potato cut into a small dice
1 t salt
1/8 t freshly ground black pepper
½ t chopped fresh thyme
1 plum tomato, seeds and pulp removed, cut in a small dice
1/4 cup water mixed with 3 T masa harina or corn meal

Directions
1. Melt butter in a large saucepan. Add bacon. Fry about 4 minutes but don’t brown.
2. Add carrots, celery and onions.
3. Cut the kernels off the corn and put aside. Cut the cobs in half and add to saucepan.
4. Add milk and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover pot and continue to cook at a bare simmer for 30 minutes. Be careful not to scald milk in the bottom of the saucepan.
5. Discard cobs, bacon and bay leaf.
7. Add potatoes, salt and pepper and simmer about 15 minutes until potatoes are tender.
8. Add corn kernels, thyme and tomato. If chowder needs thickening, stir in a slurry of masa harina and water.
9. Simmer 5 minutes and serve.

Photographer Bill Brady

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

Pork in the ‘que!

Not being from the South, I had no reference for good ole pork barbecue growing up. I mean, I am from the South of Brooklyn, NY (not to be confused with the neighborhood of “South Brooklyn,” which is actually situated in the North portion of the borough), but that doesn’t really fly here. I’m talkin’ authentic North Carolina or Tennessee pulled pork and ribs. Nevertheless, with some southern traveling under my belt and an obsession for food TV, I’ve adopted quite an obsession for the stuff.

We’ve all seen them. Those barbecue cook-off shows situated somewhere deep in the Swanee. Pit connoisseurs fastidiously tending to their pork shoulders or ribs in either commercial or homemade smokers – for hours and hours. I’ve been on the receiving end of some of those meals. Brined and rubbed with secret recipe spices, there’s something about smoke and slow cooking that just makes certain cuts of pork a magically satisfying culinary experience. Then there’s the sauce. Unlike some of us Northern amateurs, Southerners don’t slather on the sauce before cooking. That step comes after the cooking is done.

Speaking of barbecue sauces, some prefer North Carolina style – a vinegar based concoction with a hint of brown sugar sweetness and a lot of spicy kick. You, on the other hand, might go for Tennessee’s tomato-based sticky, red and sweet variety. If you’re lucky the chef will have laced it with some whiskey. Or head on over to Texas, where although they specialize in smoked beef brisket, their thinner, spicier tomato-based sauces will do just fine on any pulled pork or rib you can cook up.

So, how do you enjoy pulled pork? Well, for those of you who aren’t familiar with this classic, it’s called “pulled” because the pork is so tender that you can actually shred pieces of it with a fork. You’ll usually find it served up generously on a roll, smothered in sauce and piled high with plenty of home-style cole slaw. Believe me, there’s nothing more succulent. Whatever sauce you choose, you’ll experience an explosion of juicy sweetness, tartness and spice that will definitely taste like some more! As for ribs, you know the deal. Just start eating, and have plenty of moist hand wipes to go around.

I know what you’re thinking: I’m not purchasing a smoker and sticking it in my backyard, next to the pool house. Well, leave it to Phyllis Kirigan – or her son, in this case – to come up with a simply smashing way to prepare a pork shoulder in the oven that will knock your socks off, so to speak. Check out her pulled pork recipe below.

Now, not to leave my Mom out of this equation, who wouldn’t know a pulled pork sandwich from a meatball hero, she does have her own way of barbecuing pork that is somewhat curious, but always surprisingly delicious. She is, after all, from the South – of Italy, that is. In any event, she takes that jarred, duck sauce like stuff that’s laden with apricots and marinates her pork chops and ribs in it over night. The next day, my Dad grills them up. Screaming about the sticky mess they’re making on the grill, of course. Well, it’s hard to believe, but they’re actually very good. I know, it’s not the real deal. However, if you don’t find yourself south of the Mason-Dixon Line and don’t feel like heading off to a barbecue joint in town, this is an option in a pinch.

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Barbecue and pork really is a match made in heaven. Please be sure to get your hands on the real deal next time your down South. Some of those places are hopping, I assure you. So you might have to stand in ‘que. But it will be worth it.

Victor Ribaudo

Pulled pork is one of the South’s most popular dishes. However, you don’t have to seek out a North Carolina barbecue joint to enjoy this tender, savory delight. In fact, you don’t even need a barbecue pit. My son Chris created this juicy pulled pork last week for 50 hungry Long Islanders. It disappeared in a flash.

I have cut down his recipe to serve 8. It’s imperative to top a pulled pork sandwich with a tart cole slaw or cucumber dill pickles or both. And then, what to serve it on? Some prefer a crusty roll, but Chris likes a quality soft bun that will better soak up the barbecue sauce. Some recipes call for braising the pork and basting it from time to time. Chris did neither and the pork came out moist and succulent.

Ingredients

1 pork shoulder, about 6 – 8 lbs.

3 T dark brown sugar

1 t onion powder

1 t garlic powder

1 T salt

1 T ground cumin

1 T smoked paprika

1 T freshly ground black pepper

Procedure

Trim excess fat from pork shoulder. Place pork in a baking dish. Combine sugar, onion and garlic powder, salt, cumin, paprika and black pepper. Rub over pork to coat. Place in refrigerator at least 3 hours. Bring pork to room temperature. P lace in a roasting pan fat side up in a 225 degree oven.

Slow cook until meat is fork tender and the temperature is 160 degrees. This will take 6 to 7 hours. Let rest. Take 2 forks and pull apart into shreds and place in a bowl.

Barbecue Sauce

Ingredients

1 cup ketchup

1 T mustard

2 T molasses

1 cup apple cider

3 T dark brown sugar

½ t crushed red pepper

Procedure

Combine ingredients in a saucepan and whisk to dissolve sugar. Cook over medium heat until sauce comes to a simmer. Simmer very gently for 10 minutes. Mix the barbecue sauce into the pork shreds until well coated and serve alongside buns, cole slaw and pickles. Let guests put together their own sandwiches.

In the unlikely event there are leftovers, consider making pork tacos or pork hash.

Chris’ Cole Slaw

Barbecued pulled pork cries out for the cool crunch of cole slaw. Chris’ special combination produces a tangy flavor and a colorful presentation. Be sure to cut the cabbage and fennel as thinly as possible.

Ingredients

ad green cabbage

1 small head red cabbage

1 fennel bulb

2 carrots

1/2 Vidalia onion

3/4 cup mayonnaise

1 T white Balsamic vinegar

1 t celery seeds

1 t salt

1/2 t freshly ground pepper

Procedure

Cut each head of cabbage in half and then in quarters. Cut out the hard core. Slice wedges as thinly as possible and place in a large bowl. Cut fennel bulb in quarters and slice thinly. Set aside fronds for another use. Shred carrots in a food processor using fine disk. Slice onion thinly. Add everything to bowl.

Whisk together mayonnaise, vinegar, celery seeds, salt and pepper. Pour dressing over slaw and toss. Cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours. Toss again every 15 minutes or so to make sure flavors meld and again just before serving.

Photographer Bill Brady http://bit.ly/9wFYxm
Food Stylist Brian Preston Campbell
Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika http://sweetpaprika.wordpress.com http://sweetpaprika.wordpress.com

Steak Your Claim!

Vegetarians please don’t despair. We’ll be writing plenty of blogs that will appeal to your fancies. For you carnivores, though, please keep reading. We’re talking steak this week. For me, it’s a primal thing. Pure beef. Unadulterated. Thrown on the grill and done up medium rare. Is there anything more satisfying? I think not.

As a kid steak didn’t really appeal to me. It was something we had for dinner every Saturday night. (Was Saturday steak night at your home too?) However, when I was a bit older, my family started a Christmas Season tradition. We’d spend an evening doing those great things one does in New York City that time of year. Window shopping on Fifth Avenue, the Christmas tree in Rockefeller Center, the Rockettes Show at Radio City Music Hall. The best part of the evening, however, was dinner at Ruth’s Chris. There are fancier, more expensive steak houses in the city. But there was something about Ruth’s steak that really was irresistible. Perhaps it was the butter served atop those sizzling cuts that got to me. I don’t know. Nevertheless, I’ve been a steak fanatic ever since.

Besides those Christmastime visits to Ruth’s Chris which we still, by the way, treat ourselves to every season, I particularly look forward to steak this time of year. Grilling a steak is my favorite way to prepare it. Whether it’s a t-bone, strip or hanger steak nothing takes to the flavor that charcoal imparts better. I prefer mine medium rare, but I’m very accommodating. I’ll prepare yours anyone way you like. Nothing elaborate, mind you. A simple sprinkling of salt and freshly ground pepper and you’re ready to go with it.

For as much as I’m a backyard BBQ enthusiast, I’m not really a purist. I’ll take steak anyway you serve it. So if you want to panfry mine, or broil it for me, I’ll be there with a bottle of wine to enjoy the meal. Need to get up market with it? Do it au poivre. Coat the steak with peppercorns and panfry. Create a pan sauce of reduced cognac and heavy cream. Oh, be sure to make the sauce in the same pan you cooked the steak. You want to get all the brown goodness in your sauce. Or perhaps you’re looking for something a little brighter? Why not ladle a bit of béarnaise sauce over your steak. The butter, egg yolk and tarragon mixture is the perfect counterfoil to the earthiness of the meat. Please don’t buy bottled béarnaise, though. It’s easy to prepare, and recipes abound.

I could write tomes about different cuts of steak. The best way to find your fit is to try them all. As for aging, I do preferred dry aged steaks (as opposed to wet aged). And always Prime for me. A bit more expensive, but definitely worth it.

As for sides, well I am a bit of a purist here. With my steak au poivre, nothing will do except for mashed potatoes and steamed asparagus. When béarnaise is on the plate, I want a baked potato and creamed spinach. When it’s just steak, some French fries and sautéed mushrooms must accompany. I know, these are all sides you find at the steakhouses. I can’t help it. Guess I just keep returning to Ruth’s Chris!

Before I go, just a quick word about steak sauce: unnecessary! I’m sorry, I get a bit crazy where steak is concerned. But tell me, why would you want to smother a kicked up version of Worcestershire sauce on such a beautiful thing as steak? I’m not judging. Enjoy however you please. That’s why steak exists.

Victor Ribaudo

Crank Up the BBQ–Grilled Ribeye Steak

Great steaks aren’t cooked, they’re bought; the important work is done
before you ever leave the shop. Ruth Reichl in
Garlic and Sapphires

A great steak from aged grass-fed beef can’t be beat. It doesn’t need a rub
massaged into it to mask the flavor. Its own beefy flavor is sublime. Does
Peter Luger use a rub? I think not. Select steaks at least 1 ½ inches
thick and nicely marbled. This means a fine marbling of fat throughout, not
big pockets of fat and, in no case, totally lean. It’s true that fat carries
flavor plus providing more tender meat. I really like Cheryl Smith’s recipe
for ribeye. She does include a brief rest for the steak in garlic, olive
oil and fresh thyme, but then the garlic and thyme are removed before
grilling.
Optional: Serve it with a creamy gorgonzola sauce. Suggested
accompaniments are sautéed spinach and shoestring potatoes.

Ingredients:
2 (10-oz.) ribeye steaks from grass-fed beef (preferably aged)
3 cloves garlic, sliced
6 sprigs fresh thyme, crushed
3 T extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Procedure:
1. Place steak in a dish along with garlic, thyme and olive oil. Turn the
steak over from time to time and allow it to marinate for one hour.
2. Heat a grill to medium high.
3. Remove garlic and thyme and season steak with salt and pepper.
4. Grill to desired doneness turning only once.
5. Remove from grill and cover with aluminum foil for five minutes before
serving.

Gorgonzola Dolce Cream Sauce

Ingredients:
2 T unsalted butter
2 T finely diced onions
1 T fresh thyme leaves
1 T all-purpose flour
1 cup heavy cream
2 T dry sherry
½ to 1 cup gorgonzola dolce cheese
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Procedure:
1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan.
2. Add the onions, thyme and then whisk in the flour.
3. Cook the flour one minute.
4. Add the heavy cream and dry sherry and continue to whisk. Bring the
mixture to a simmer.
5. After about 2 minutes of simmering add cheese to melt. Season with salt
and pepper. Serve on top of steak or on the side. Serves 2.
Adapted from Cheryl Smith

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

Play It Up…Like a Real Hamburger

I like all-American food. Even if it originated in another country, as is often the case. I guess the hamburger is one of those national favorites. They say that the Germans invented it. Hence the name “hamburger” (from Hamburg Steak). I don’t know. Seems that the concept of chopping meat and then forming it into patties has probably been seen in many countries throughout history. Don’t forget, I am Italian and meatballs belong to us (and the Swedes, I guess.) Perhaps German immigrants were the first to introduce a chopped meat patty to America. Doesn’t really matter where it originated, though; the hamburger is a true American classic in this guy’s culinary book.

Now, I know that hamburgers abound in fast food chains. They taste great and I never knock them. My nephew loves them too much. But that’s not what I’m after. To me, a hamburger must be prepared freshly at home to be of any real interest to my taste buds. It all starts with the meat, of course. Good quality beef is a must, but we can’t have it too lean or you’ll be eating cardboard instead of juicy goodness. About 85% lean – as Phyllis Kirigin suggests in her fantastic recipe below – is great. I like them hand formed, but you can use one of those hamburger gadgets. All good. Then there’s the cooking technique. I prefer good old fashioned grilling on the backyard BBQ. The charcoal smokiness really does it for me. I will, however, take my hamburgers to a frying pan every once in a while. I kind of like the steaming effect you get – not unlike White Castle. Really moist. Broiling is also a decent option. But be careful. Overcooking might occur. That’s never a good thing.

Sliders shot for Trump SOHO Bar Deau, Super yum.

Now those are the basics. Next to consider are the toppings. The perfunctory ketchup is a must for me, but I also like to add mayonnaise to that mix. (Mustard, not so much.) Sometimes I adorn my burger with relish or pickles, when I’m feeling fancy free. Cheese is always nice. I adore brie on mine, but any variety will do. Sautéed or raw onions are welcome enhancements…as well as bacon or smoky ham. But that’s really the beginning. I get bored fast. So I’ll often make it a Californian with the addition of fresh avocado slices, tomato and onion. My Mexican gets guacamole, along with Monterey Jack, sautéed jalapenos and salsa. The Italian dons mozzarella and tomato sauce. The Indian gets chutney. And the Greek gets chopped cucumber, tomato, dill and feta. The possibilities are endless.

When I was a teenager, I discovered a recipe for hamburgers stuffed with sautéed mushrooms and onions. After pan frying, I was supposed to add wine to deglaze and create a sauce. Well, I poured in the wine right in the middle of the frying process. Needless to say, my Mom had a mess on her hands. Point is, I’ve always been a hamburger connoisseur – even if I did mess up every once in a while. Wanting to broaden my burger horizons, so to speak. So aside from substituting turkey or chicken for beef, I’ll often change up the meat mixture to include ground veal, pork – even loose sausage meat. Or I’ll serve lamb burgers and throw everyone for a loop. I suggest creativity with your spices and herbs as well. Try cumin and coriander in the lamb burger and make it Middle Eastern. Minced garlic, parsley and grated cheese give the burger an Italian flair. Chopped scallions, ginger and soy sauce – especially with ground pork – offer everyone a taste of Asia in a bun.

Speaking of buns, they are important. So much from which to choose. Pick your favorites. But please, do toast them on the grill or in the oven. No one likes a hot burger on a cold bun.

A lot to say about a simple hamburger? Not really. I could go on and on about sliders as well. Just some thoughts for now about Americana fare and the leader of that pack.

Victor Ribaudo

French Hamburgers

Is a hamburger by any other name still a hamburger? Not if it’s bifteck haché. Move over for a moment, All-American hamburger, and make way for this knockout straight from the Cordon Bleu. Fresh thyme, bacon and minced onions are mixed in to provide a subtle complexity, both herbaceous and smoky but never overpowering the flavor of beef. At least this is the way I make it.

It’s an adaptation of Julia Child’s ground beef with onions and herbs and her hamburgers with cream sauce carefully explained on my dog-eared and food stained pages 301 and 302 of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. I. The patties can be served with a sauce or not. This is my “or not” version so you’ll need hamburger buns.

The quality of the beef is very important. Some of the least expensive cuts, chuck and neck are the most flavorful. 85 per cent lean is about right.

Ingredients for 6 burgers

2 T butter

¾ cup finely minced onion

3 oz. finely chopped bacon (smoked applewood or black forest)

1 ½ lbs. ground beef

1/8 t freshly ground black pepper

1/8 t ground thyme or ½ t minced fresh thyme

1 egg

1 T butter for sautéing patties

6 slices Gruyere cheese (optional)

Preparation

1. In a large frying pan, cook the onions slowly in the butter until slightly wilted. Add bacon and cook until onions are very tender and bacon cooked through. Remove, leaving bacon fat in pan, and let cool.

2. In a mixing bowl, add beef, seasonings, onions, bacon and egg. Mix lightly but thoroughly with your hands. Taste for seasoning. Form into six patties.

3. Add butter to the bacon fat in same frying pan over moderately high heat. When the butter foam begins to subside, sear the patties. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes on each side or to desired degree of doneness.

4. Now, to Frenchify these babies a bit more, melt a slice of Gruyere on top of each. Place on lightly toasted hamburger buns and add condiments of your choice. Personally I like soft buns that you can bite into and not have the toppings squish out the sides.

Enjoy your meal! (You know how Julia would have put it.)

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

Ice Cream Dreams

I do believe we’re all kids at heart, to some extent. Hence, my inner child still gets giddy in amusement parks and when receiving Christmas gifts. I’m not ashamed to admit it. As far as food goes, I’m sometimes tempted to order from the kids’ menu. They won’t let me, though. So I’m thrilled when a host serves me a chicken fingers and fries. Even pasta with mini meatballs! And when it’s time for dessert, I can still be heard screaming for ice cream.

Picture it, Brooklyn 1966. I’m playing stickball in the streets, and the ice cream truck’s jingle can be heard from two blocks away. “Ma,” I scream, “it’s here!” That’s all I have to say. She comes to the front door, hands me some change (back then, that’s all you needed) and in a few moments I’m in heaven with a double cone, one side vanilla, the other chocolate, both covered in multi-colored sprinkles. Didn’t take much to make me happy back then. Still the case now.

Ice cream can be enjoyed in so many different ways. Out of tub, ready to be scooped in a large bowl – or just eaten with spoon in hand in front of late night TV. Soft serve, swirled in a cup or cone (I now prefer the harder sugar cones). Sandwiched between chocolaty wafers or, better yet, giant chocolate chip cookies. Or at a gelato shoppe, pressed between two pizzelles (sort of flat Italian waffles). Speaking of gelato, have you tried the olive oil variety? You’ll find it every once in a while at Bomboloni in NYC, on Columbus Avenue and 69th Street. Sounds strange, but man, it’s outrageous. Ultra smooth and rich.

and very, very Italian. Speaks to my inner core.

I’ve been known to create strange concoctions with ice cream. Well, strange to my mother, that is. For instance, I like to add salted peanuts to my bowl of vanilla. A drizzling of fudge syrup and, as we say in Brooklyn, “Who’s better than me?” I’ll sometimes sprinkle cinnamon and cayenne on chocolate ice cream. The contrast of cold cream and hot spice is fascinating to me. Ever mix crushed pretzels and potato chips in your ice cream Sunday? Eat it fast, before the chips and pretzels get soggy.

Well, I can be a traditionalist as well. Banana Splits are favorite weekend treats in my home. Nuts in syrup, chocolate sauce, mini marshmallows, whipped cream…you name it. Always with the cherry on top, of course. I’ll do a Baked Alaska every once in a while. Even ice cream cakes. Oh, the store bought varieties are OK. But I go all out with freshly baked sponge cakes, sliced and spread with preserves and then layered in a spring form pan with different ice cream flavors and crumbled cookies. Freeze and then unhinge the pan before serving. The icing is up to you but one thing is for sure; your guest of honor will be impressed.

I’m not sure if sorbets and Italian ices belong in this blog, but I’ll go ahead and mention them anyway. Sorbets can be very refreshing, as you know. I love when they’re served mid meal to cleanse one’s palate. Flavors can run from ordinary fruit to exotic combos. I tasted a lemon and fresh ginger sorbet once that blew my mind. You can get fancy and serve them in hollowed out oranges, lemons and coconut shells. I don’t really find it necessary though. If it’s a freshly made sorbet, it tastes just as good in a bowl. As for Italian ices, well, that’s another story. I insist on enjoying mine in those flimsy paper cups. The only way to go, as far as I’m concerned. As for a favorite flavor, to me nothing beats melon – especially cantaloupe.

We’re experiencing an early heat wave hear in New York City. So I’m opting for out of the office and into the gelato shoppe a block away. There’s a pistachio two scooper with my name on it.

Victor Ribaudo

Ice Cream Explosion!

Maple Syrup Gelato

The luscious flavor and mouthfeel of this silky confection will prompt you to get out your ice cream maker and check your supply of maple syrup. The procedure couldn’t be easier.

The cornstarch slurry and vodka prevent the gelato from melting too quickly yet keep it soft.

2 1/4 cups whole milk

2 T cornstarch

¾ cup pure maple syrup

2 T vodka (not flavored)

1. Mix ¼ cup milk with 2 T cornstarch to form a slurry. Set aside.

2. Heat 2 cups milk just to the boiling point.

3. Add cornstarch slurry and whisk until slightly thickened. Take off heat.

4. Slowly stir in maple syrup until well blended.

5. Pour into a bowl and cool to room temperature.

6. Place in refrigerator until well chilled.

7. Stir in 2 T vodka and freeze in ice cream maker according to directions.

8. Transfer to a container when thick and creamy and place in freezer. The gelato is best eaten within one or two days, but if you manage to keep it a few days longer, the vodka will prevent it from getting hard. Makes ¾ quart.

Inspired by Chef Jonathan Pratt

Blood Orange Sherbet

1 tbsp. grated zest
7 oz. sugar
1/8 tsp. salt
2 cups freshly squeezed blood orange juice (about 8 blood oranges)
4 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 1 lemon)
2 tsp. vodka or triple sec
2/3 cup heavy cream

1. Place the zest and sugar in a large bowl.

2. Rub the zest and sugar together with your fingers until sandy and wet.

2. Whisk in the salt, orange juice, lemon juice, and vodka.

3. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. You can leave the zest in, but the texture won’t be as smooth.

4. Chill the mixture until very cold, about two or three hours. (45 min. in the freezer works, but don’t let it freeze or get icy. It won’t incorporate into the cream.)

5. In a separate, large mixing bowl, whisk the heavy cream until soft peaks form. Slowly drizzle the orange juice against the side of the bowl while whisking.

6. Turn ice cream maker on and pour the sherbet base through the feed hole. Churn until thick. Transfer to an airtight container and let harden for a few hours until serving. Keeps well for 1 week. (It will get icier the longer it sits, but the flavor won’t suffer much.)

Note: You don’t have to use the vodka, but the texture won’t be the same and you will have to let the sherbet soften a bit before scooping. Makes 1 quart.

Adapted from Cooks’ Illustrated

Orange Sorbet

A delightful icy refreshment for a sultry day . . . and soooo easy to make.

1 cup water

½ cup sugar

2 cups fresh orange juice

1. Make a sugar syrup by bringing water and sugar to a boil in a small sauce pan. Keep it at a slow simmer for 20 minutes. Take off heat and let cool.

2. Add orange juice. Taste for sweetness.

3. Chill in refrigerator. Make your sorbet according to the manufacturer’s instructions for your ice cream maker.

4. For a decorative twist you can create frozen orange cups from oranges cut in half. Gently scoop out the contents, removing all the pulp. Place in the freezer for about an hour until the orange halves are frozen.

5. When sorbet is ready, scoop into orange cups, garnish with fruit and serve.

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

Rice to Entice

I’ll bet you’re thinking, “What does this Italian guy know about rice?” Well, it’s true that pasta is the carbohydrate of choice is my neck of the boot (Southern Italy, that is.) Nevertheless, we Italian Americans have a keen talent for spotting a good thing when we taste it. Truth is, pasta runs a close second to rice in my household. And really, anything I put on pasta can easily be placed on a dish of rice and taste just as good – even better in some instances. (Nonna, forgive me!)

Rice plays such a major role in the culinary traditions of so many cultures around the world. It’s the global favorite. Think about it. All of Asia is hooked on rice. Always has been. That’s a lot of rice! Then there’s the Caribbean and South America, where rice is king as well. In the U.S., Southern cuisine features rice in many of its dishes, especially in Creole and Cajun cooking. So my affinity for rice puts me in very good company.

Growing up, rice made limited appearances on the dinner table. Mom did have one good rice recipe up her sleeve, though. She prepared the rice in chicken broth. When it was done, she’d fluff it up and mix freshly chopped scallions into it. So simple but really nice with her fried chicken cutlets. My grandmother’s rice repertoire was mostly limited to mixing it with butter and parmiggiano cheese. Every once in a rare while she incorporated Sunday’s left over sauce and chopped meatballs into freshly prepared rice. It was garnished with grated cheese and served it as a side dish. It was good. Her Steak Pizzaiola or Chicken Cacciatore were also ladled over rice. But that was about it.

When I started living on my own, rice quickly exceeded pasta and potatoes as the norm in my kitchen. It was fairly inexpensive, nutritious, delicious and extremely versatile. I became a master at fried rice featuring chicken, pork, beef, vegetables – you name it – and always with scrambled egg, please. Rice replaced noodles in my soups. I had a ball as I would gumbo and etouffee my way through the week with ease. I believe I ate rice every day. Then I hit my thirties – hard. Metabolizing carbohydrates slowed down as my weight went up. I had to cut back a bit.

So now I balance the carbs with protein and fresh veggies. It’s fine, really, because I still eat plenty of my beloved rice. Just not every day! I will opt for brown rice at times. Kind of nutty in flavor. And they say it’s a better choice for those watching their weight. Wild rice is also pretty tasty. (It’s not technically rice, but who’s looking anyway.) I like to mix chopped almonds in mine. However, a good white rice – whether it’s basmati, jasmine or texmati – is still my preference. I’ll go as far as leaving the potatoes out of my beef stew so I can enjoy it over rice. If I’m going to carb, I’ll drop the potato like, well, a hot potato any day.

Have you ever tried a rice salad? It’s really something special. Prepare your rice as directed, and let it cool. Be sure the kernels are separated. It won’t work with sticky rice. Then take some really ripe tomatoes and dice, saving all the luscious juice. Do the same with celery, red onion, flat leaf parsley and fresh basil. Mix your veggies into the rice, as well as a can of rinsed black beans. Now you’re ready for a dressing. I recommend red wine vinegar and olive oil here. Simple, but classic. Chill and serve.

I can extol the glories of rice for days and days. Suffice it to say, since space here is limited, that rice can take center stage or play a supporting role at any fine meal. In other words, look to entice with rice. Recipes are limitless, but start with Phyllis’ below. It’s a keeper. That’s it for now. I’ve got some rice pudding in the fridge with my name on it.

Victor Ribaudo

Spicy Szechuan Tofu
Sure, you might want to try this recipe because it’s good for you, but you
would also be right on target to try it because it’s zesty and redolent with
Asian tang. Tofu is s highly versatile ingredient absorbing any flavors you
want it to have, in this case, spicy chili paste, sesame oil, garlic and
fresh ginger.

My Chinese mentors, the late Virginia Lee and Grace Chu inspired this
recipe. Both had tantalizing stir fried tofu in their repertoires. Madame
Chu lived to age 100.

Ingredients
6 squares firm tofu
2 T peanut or vegetable oil
1 cup ground pork
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 t salt
2 t minced fresh ginger
1 T hot Szechuan chili paste
1 T dark soy sauce
½ t sugar
1 T rice wine
½ cup chicken stock
2 T cornstarch
1 t Szechuan peppercorns, ground*
1/3 cup diced scallions
1 T sesame oil

Procedure
1. Cut tofu into ½ inch cubes.
2. In a wok or skillet, bring peanut oil to a high heat. Add ground pork
and stir fry** until all pieces are separated and pork loses its pink color.
3. Add garlic and salt, stir frying just until the flavor is released.
4. Add ginger, chili paste and tofu, stir frying very gently.
5. Add soy sauce, sugar and wine, stir frying until mixed.
6. Pour in stock, mixing until it begins to boil and then add cornstarch
mixed with 2 T water.
7. Stir fry gently until sauce thickens.
8. Sprinkle with peppercorn powder, scatter on scallions and drizzle with
sesame oil to serve.
* You can grind them in a spice mill or just put them in a baggie and role a
bottle or rolling pin over them.
** “Stir frying” is a misnomer. There is no stirring in stir frying. The
technique is to slide the spatula underneath the food at the center of the
wok, lift it up and turn it over. Then repeat this procedure from a
different angle. Thus, the top surface becomes the bottom surface and all
gets cooked evenly. Always heat your wok first before adding the oil. Get
your wok as hot as possible without burning the oil. Don’t use a nonstick
pan.

Photographer Bill Brady

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

These Dogs Are Hot!

Hot dogs are funny things. No matter how sophisticated your tastes are, you still crave them – especially this time of year. After all, they are a mainstay at baseball games and backyard barbecues. We New Yorkers also have our hot dog street vendors. Two-to-go as you stroll Midtown on a sunny day – nothing like it. Any way you can get them, you do. I’m certainly no exception.

Hot dogs – or Franks, as we called them when I was a kid – have always been a personal favorite. Mom would pop them into the broiler during the winter months or on a grill during the summer. At the same time she’d lay out those frozen French fries on a baking sheet and place them in the oven. All that was left was the warming of some baked beans and sauerkraut and boy, a feast was born. It was like a day off for her, since her meals usually consisted of two hour stints in the kitchen. This was a 20 minute fix for a hungry family.

Sauerkraut and mustard toppings were de rigueur when I was young. As I hit the New York City pavement my first year of college I discovered the onions in tomato sauce so generously offered by the hot dog vendors. I don’t know what goes into that stuff, but it’s addictive. Of course, being obsessed with food as I am, I wanted more. That’s when I ventured into the college hangouts for an eclectic array of toppings. Raw onions, sweet relish and melted cheddar were my first foray into that world. Then, of course, there were chili dogs. Sloppy, but heavenly. Did I stop there? No. I wanted some pork, so I began to request crispy bacon with my dogs. Hey, I was in my late teens and early twenties. That was health food to me back then.

So what about now? Well, I’m still up for any combination of toppings I can get. One of my favorite hangouts is Lansky’s Deli on Columbus Avenue and 71st Street in New York’s Upper West Side. They feature a foot long dog – fried, of course – and topped with anything you like. I prefer crispy pastrami bits, cheddar cheese, ketchup and sautéed onions. Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. I usually start with an appetizer. You guessed it – pigs in a blanket. Listen, if I’m doggin’ it I’m going all the way.

Now, I don’t want you to think that I’m limited. I do include the hot dog in some classic cuisine. (Well, maybe not classic but definitely cuisine by the strictest definition of the word.) That means my homemade mac ‘n cheese will often sport pieces of grilled hot dogs in the mix before it goes into the oven to crisp up. The smokiness of the dogs is a perfect counterfoil to the mellow cheese sauce. And you haven’t tried my hot dog frittata. Don’t laugh. I sauté sliced hot dogs in some olive oil until nicely seared. After removing the slices from the pan, in goes lots of sliced onions. When they are caramelized, I return the hot dog slices to the pan and add the beaten eggs. When the frittata is just about done, I cover with slices of cheddar cheese and place under the broiler until the cheese is melted. Let me tell you, this is a meal fit for a king. You must try it.

Whatever you do, be sure to buy the best quality hot dogs you can find. There is a difference. Dogs that plump up when you cook them are suspicious to me. Oh, hot dogs do grow a bit when the hit the grill, broiler or boiling water. But they shouldn’t end up looking like knockwurst. That a whole different animal for a different blog. And as for your buns, the choice is really up to you. I can eat a hot dog in Italian bread or sandwiched in pita. It’s more about the dog and less about the bread for me. Please be sure that the hot dog bun or roll or whatever is at least warm, though. Nothing worse than a sizzling hot dog in a piece of cold bread.

I continue to look for new ways to top my hot dogs. Lately I’ve been getting into chutney. I like the way the sweetness plays with the saltiness of the dog. I’m also fooling around with sautéed jalapenos. I usually accompany this with a blue cheese and dollop of sour cream. Hey, let me know what you come up with. I’m in the mood for something new this weekend.

Victor Ribaudo

Putting on the Dog . . . Chicago Style, That Is

We all have our guilty pleasures. Mine is an occasional hot dog. Coney Island style with its chili topping, Red Hots from Maine or Chicago style with its unique combination of condiments. They’re all delicious, but I have to admit they always taste better at a ball game. However, you can come very close preparing your own. Why not try the Chicago style?

Ingredients

All beef hot dogs with natural casing (The natural casing produces the required snap when you bite into it.)

High quality hot dog buns, preferably poppy seed

Yellow mustard (not brown or Dijon; ketchup is a definite no-no)

Sweet pickle relish (yes, the neon green one)

White onion, chopped (Vidalia is a good choice.)

Ripe tomato, sliced into thin wedges

Crunchy dill pickle spears (neither too spicy nor sour)

Sport peppers

Celery salt

Procedure

1. Bring water to a boil in a pot with a steamer insert. Steam hot dogs for 5 to 6 minutes.

2. Steam rolls until heated through.

3. Place each hot dog in a bun.

4. Squirt yellow mustard directly on hot dog preferably in a zigzag pattern.

5. Add a generous amount of sweet relish

6. Place chopped onions on top of dog.

7. Place two tomato wedges between the top of the dog and the bun

8. Place pickle spears between dog and bottom of the bun.

9. Place sport peppers, either two whole or sliced, on top of dog.

10. Sprinkle a dash of celery salt over dog. Chow down!

Photographer Bill Brady

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Recipe Provided by Phyllis Kirigin, aka sweetpaprika

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

Come Out of Your Shellfish

When I was a kid, shellfish scared me. I mean, these denizens of the ocean aren’t the prettiest things to look at. Mom was smart, though. She removed the delectable meat from her crabs, lobsters and mussels and created the most awesome dishes with them. I got over my fear, eventually, and began to tackle critters such as king crab legs bravely. I’ve been a fan ever since.

The overwhelming quality of shellfish to me is its sweetness. I love fish to begin with. However, shellfish offers a sweet depth of flavor that finned seafood doesn’t quite match. Even the shells are delicious. No, not to eat (with the exception of soft shell crabs, of course), but added to stocks. Briny, deep and rich.

My favorite shellfish would have to be lobster. Expensive tastes this guy has! Boiled, steamed, broiled, grilled – however you cook it, the integrity of the succulent meat always remains uncompromised. Mom used to mix the lobster roe with Italian flavored breadcrumb and stuff the cavity of those soon-to-be red beauties, which were then broiled. She offered a garlic-butter dipping sauce, and I was in heaven. Yes, whether it’s simmered in a bisque or mixed with mayonnaise and stuffed in a bun, lobster is always OK with me.

That being said, my love of shellfish extends to just about any variety. Have you ever tried blue crabs in garlic and beer sauce? Easy to prepare. I sauté garlic in olive oil for a bit, then add my blue crabs with a generous sprinkling of oregano. When the pot is back to a sizzle, I pour in a can of lager beer, cover, and simmer until the crabs are done. Really fantastic.

Or how about ceviche? Although it can be prepared with just about any seafood, I prefer scallops. The acid in the citrus juice “cooks” the scallops, leaving them tender and delicious. Try Phyllis’ recipe. It’s wonderful.

I’m just beginning. During the summer months, I love to do Shellfish Boils. Steamers (clams), mussels, crabs, shrimp, you name it. I throw them all in a gigantic pot, with some water on the bottom (you’re really steaming, not boiling.) You can season however you like. I always use Old Bay. Throw in some baby potatoes, corn on the cob and a few pieces of chorizo sausage, and you have a real feast on your hands – literally, because forks on not allowed.

Being a shellfish maniac, I really love stuffed shrimp. After all, you’re getting two shellfish flavors for the price of one. Delicate lump crabmeat mixed with cracker meal, herbs and spices – generously stuffed into butterflied jumbo shrimp. Pop ‘em in the broiler with a drizzling of melted butter and, I mean, how can you go wrong?

I’m kind of rambling here, as I’m wont to do when it comes to food. Nevertheless, I must ask if you go crazy at those buffets that offer king crab legs. I do. If it’s a really good buffet, there are some jumbo boiled shrimp in the offing as well, in their shell. Or how about raw bars? How many raw clams and oysters can you eat in one sitting? A squeeze lemon, or hot sauce, or both? Yes, a bit expensive, but worth every penny.

Coming off of Lent, I’m surprised at how hungry I’m making myself talking about all this shellfish. Puts me in mind for some linguini with white clam sauce, followed by sautéed soft shell crabs. They’re in season, you know. But then again, shellfish is always in season when you sport a healthy appetite.

Victor Ribaudo

Bay Scallop Ceviche

A refreshing treat is awaiting you as those hot summer days are about to roll in. A ceviche of bay scallops, the smallest, sweetest and most delicate of the various scallops will serve as a delicious summer tonic. As you know, the acid of citrus juices “cooks” the seafood. There is no real cooking and the components are put together in a jiffy.

Ceviche may be served as an appetizer or the main course of a luncheon. Use your imagination to come up with a serving vessel. How about a lettuce wrap, in a scallop shell,* a clam shell or martini glass? Serve within 24 hours. Serves 6 – 8.

Ingredients

3/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

1 T extra virgin olive oil

1 lb. bay scallops

1 jalapeno pepper, minced

1 cup tiny grape tomatoes

1 small red onion, cut into a small dice

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1 ripe Haas avocado, cut into small cubes

3/4 cup chopped cilantro

Procedure

In a nonreactive container, completely cover scallops with lime juice, orange juice and olive oil. Mix. Refrigerate for 2 hours. Mix in jalapeno, tomatoes, onion, salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate for another hour. Toss with avocado and fresh cilantro just before serving.

*Scallop shells may be purchased in fancy food shops.